Day 5 “Looking back is sometimes better than looking forward”

After our first wet cold night in the Peruvian Andes, we were awoken quite early by one of the porters presenting at our tent a selection of hot teas and of course the local delicacy coco leaves. In keeping with tradition we chose the coco tea. It was these small gestures that made the whole experience with Andean life so enjoyable. Although it had been quite damp the previous night, the sun was out and the scenery spectacular .Today by all accounts was fore warned to be the hardest day of the trail and it certainly delivered. Breakfast was excellent and another surprise ... Can you believe crepes with fresh fruit?? After breakfast it was pack up and get ready for the long day, but not before a formal introduction to our hard working kindly porters. They ranged in age from 18 to 46 and as said before and I am sure I will again they gained our respect more and more each day. After all the formalities is was off on the trail again. The early morning was a steep but very pleasurable assent though a green forest that sheltered us from the sun and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa... Streams of water flowed across the path almost every 500 yards it seemed. It was at this point and at many times thereafter that I realized that sometimes looking back is better than looking forward. When climbing for so long you sometimes become so focused on what is immediately in front of you that you can miss so much what is behind you and many times the view is better in addition to the awe that can sweep over you as you really appreciate what you have already accomplished. We stopped periodically at the few points along the trail where toilets had been built and it was at one of these stops that it was brought to our attention by some of the girls that one of the porters from another group was taking pictures of them while relieving themselves. Kind of funny I suppose and at first no one really wanted to deal with it, not the guides for sure, but by the end of the day it had become so bad that our porters took matters into their own hands and confronted him. He of course denied it and was visibly shaken, but it was enough for him to be thrown out of his camp. Back on the trail we began to leave the forest and continued up to the trails highest peak or the legendary Dead Woman’s path @ 14500 ft or so. It was hard and although the altitude never made me sick it certainly slowed me down in this regard, especially the last hour of the climb. I had to rest every 100 yards or so on the last leg. Getting to the top was certainly a feeling of accomplishment, and a comfort to know you had completed the most difficult section of the trail. It was all down hill from there LOL ask Elsa ;) From the morning camp I swear we hit just about every climate imaginable to this point. We were so high our heads were literally in the clouds. An early morning cool walk in the forest, followed by scorching heat where I stripped down to my shorts, then the daily rain, and finally freezing cold at the top of the pass. I swear just an hour earlier I was sweaty and hot to now freezing wishing I had taken my woolen sweater. The decent from the pass was quite steep (when was it not I guess) but a long hike fore sure. What goes up must come down and this was the part of the trail which gave Elsa the most difficulty, but she was a trooper and was in no way ever going to give up. At the valley floor most of the other tours setup camp for the night even though it was just lunch time, but I guess they figured they had pushed their groups hard enough. NOT us we ate and went back on the trail. Being at the bottom of the valley floor we of course had to go straight up again. The assent this time was almost equally brutal as the one before, but the views were fantastic. I had a theory that even if the Spaniards had found this trail the paths were so steep and narrow, that a small group of Indians could have literally held off an army with enough rocks to throw. We passed the ruins of Runkuracay which has an awe-inspiring view of the valley. At this point of the trail the paving now becomes for the most part original, up until now the path had been rebuilt or “built” to make certain parts safer. Again being at the top there is always another steep decline to look forward to. As most of the other groups decided to stay further back for the night, and with Elsa’s knee slowing us down we had the good fortune of having long stretches of the trail to ourselves and it truly was a beautiful stroll as we passed the ruins of Sayacmarca and to our campsite at the edge of the cloud forest. This was probably the prettiest campsite and again we were greeted to an exquisite meal and then straight to bed, a truly exhausting but rewarding day.
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Inca_trail Day 2

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Day 4 “A knee to know basis”

We both awoke to the same thought "its way too bright for 0400 in the morning... A look at my trusty cell phone revealed that it was in fact 0450, ten minutes before the bus was due to take us to the beginning of the Inca trail. My trusty cell phone had not gone off! What a cliché how many times in my life have I used that excuse. What followed next was a series of curses, rants of frustrations and a mad scramble to get packed for both the trail and what we were not taking into a bag for storage. I could just see the whole group waiting for us while we got our "shit together". Luckily we were the last pickup on the bus route so the group did not arrive until close to 0530. That enabled us to do what was needed and even shovel some breakfast down but it was a close one. With our left behind luggage in storage we boarded the bus for the 3 1/2 hour journey to the trail starting point. Speculation the day before was rife as to what kind of bus would take us and we fully expected an uncomfortable bumpy ride. We were pleasantly surprised, the bus was quite comfortable and with most people taking the opportunity for a nap I intently looked out the window and watched the world go by. I find all that stuff quite interesting observing the everyday life of people on in a country I had never visited before, how the real people live outside of the tourist hubs. I was truly fascinated. The countryside was beautiful with simple adobe houses dotting the landscape and small villages here and there; generally it was a peaceful place and certainly did not seem to be too consumed with the usual hustle and bustle of most western countries. The only gripe and now that I think about it, this phenomenon appear to be the same in every Latin country I have visited. Almost every house/town had to display their political affiliation with such vigor. Entire sides of buildings covered in white paint and big bold colorful letters. I mean enough was enough already it was everywhere. We stopped along the way to pick up a few porters and the final stop in a town to purchase walking sticks and grab some breakfast. The staging area was just a dusty parking lot in which we all began to get situated for our start.
Some background is needed here. Elsa had a knee injury from a previous hike of the Grand Canyon that had been significantly aggravated during a recent hash run (see earlier blogs) and it was certainly letting itself be known during the past few days. Hence the purchase of a walking stick, but really you would need that anyway no matter who you are. We lined up to get our passports checked and stamped and crossed the bridge across the Vilcantoa river which officially starts the trail. We were all quite excited and eager. About 30 minutes into the hike Elsa’s knee began to really hurt and I have to admit that at this point I was really concerned about how this was going to affect the rest of the journey for her. But to anyone who knows Elsa there was no way this was going to keep her from completing the trail. God bless her she would let it kill her rather than give up. This was the easiest part of the trail and we passed a few small settlements that all used the opportunity of their location to sell water and soda to the daily Inca trail hikers. This was a 4 day hike in the Peruvian Andes but for the most part you could purchase beverages through most of the trail. Within a couple of hours we approached our first real assent where from the top you had a fantastic view of the Inca hillfort of Huillca Raccay. In comparison to the rest of the trial it was nothing but I mention it because it did provide us with one of the lasting images of the first day. While climbing the steep slope we observed a couple passing us back down the path being carried on ponies. They were a little over weight, looked exausted and for some incredible reason they must have never gotten the word that this was going to be more than just a leisurely stroll. They looked so un prepared and honestly if the first hill was such a problem then they did the right thing. Their walk of shame I am sure was quite embarrassing and the price was to face every other hiker and porter on the way back down with a look of failure and disgrace.
The porters; ahh these mountain goats. What ever you carried they carried 4 times as much and moved 3 times faster. Pleasant, quiet, hard working people who gained our respect more and more as each day went by. There job was to carry most of the equipment and arrive at the camp sites ahead of everyone to set up camp so all you had to do was sit down, eat and sleep. Our arrival at our first lunch stop was a real eye opener. Could you believe that we were greeted with a three course meal? From that point onwards we were all amazed as to what they could produce 4 times a day. Let’s be clear here you will not go hungry or thirsty on the Inca trail. After our delicious lunch and some coca tea we were back on the trail. Things began to get a little steeper here but all in all not bad, but we did begin to get a feel for how quickly the weather can change. It drizzled for about the last three hours of day light and by the time we got to the first camp site we were all cold and wet. But that was soon alivated with another 3 course meal and some hot tea. No camp fires allowed so after dinner it was a little chit chat around the table and off to bed, and I was certainly glad to lie down.

Inca Trail Day 1

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Peru Day 3 "Sexy Woman"

Today was E and P's first full day in Cuzco. The day began with a free breakfast buffet provided by our hotel and believe me this was not the usual “continental” breakfast bullshit dished out by most hotels the world over. Plenty of fruits, yogurts, fruit juices, pastries, and some meats and I do have to say runny eggs. But all in all you got your fill and a great start to the day in addition to a money saver. The first order of the day was to visit the Inca ruins just outside of Cuzco called Sacsayhuamen pronounced “sexy woman” In addition to the usual sight seeing we also set out to get “more in shape” ;) as we certainly did not prepare as much as we should have before arrival, but with that said we were not exactly out of shape either. We made our way to the edge of town where I guess you could argue was the older section of the city, an eclectic collection of hostels, restaurants, great views, cobble stone sidewalks and roads with LOTS of steep steps. Little did I know at this point of the trip that the Incas must love and I mean really LOVE steep steps. It was a theme played out with grueling consistency almost everyday. The altitude adjustment was still lingering and after climbing these steps I frequently had to stop and catch my breath more than one might expect. Making our way up the hill we came across what I guessed to be the main entrance gate to the ruin site. A man was standing there and he began to chit chat with Elsa. I thought it was another “hey do you need to buy a tour” routine again (they are all over the place) when suddenly Elsa became gleeful with a particular wave of excitement and a twinkle in her eye which I have since learned manifests itself when anything equestrian related happens. To her delight (and mine also), the opportunity of visiting these ruins and much more on horseback became a real possibility. We conferred for a few seconds on the details of the endeavor and decided it was on and promptly then set off to follow our guide. After a 20 minute hike and in behind some mud huts here and there, we found our ponies in a coral all ready to go. Of course the horses knew their way around all too well so all you really had to do was just sit there and let it all happen. Even trying to get them to walk faster was an effort as they honestly could not be bothered what YOU wanted to do and for the most part only listened to the owner. Elsa had a grin from ear to ear the whole time. In fact she was so excited that I do believe the pony she was riding picked up on her excitement and let it be known in his own little way he he he.. Tooting all the way he was. So we went up this path, down this one etc... Our first stop was a small rocky hill where our guide bid us to dismount and follow him. He took us to an Incan cave that had been used to hide all the gold from the Spaniards back in the day. Of course they found it, but we climbed through it and popped out the other side of the hill through a small hole. Pretty cool and Elsa did well being claustrophobic and all. Back on the ponies and off to see more small ruins. Nothing too spectacular but a good ride and certainly got to see more than you would have if walking or taking a tour bus around. The saddles were NOT comfortable or well fitting at all, so after a while I actually preferred to just walk as the inside of my legs were beginning to rub raw and I was getting aches and pains in all sorts of places after almost 3 hours on this animal. Our final stop was Sacsayhuamen. The ruins bore the same treatment as other sites with the stone walls again being razed and tore down by the Spaniards and then they used the stones to build their shit. But enough was left to still see what fine stone masons the Incas really were. Stones that fit together perfectly and have withstood the test of time with many an earthquake over the centuries to remind everyone how well they built everything. After a full day of sightseeing it was back into Cuzco. Looking forward to lunch we found ourselves in a small cute restaurant/bar that actually had an Incan wall as part of its structure. A quaint place with lots of character and one we decided to return to at a later time. For the life of us Elsa and I just can’t remember the name of it. After a nice late lunch and my first taste of liquid bubble gum (Inka Kola), it was back to the hotel to relax before later that evening where a required pre-Inca trail meeting was scheduled. It was at this meeting where we would meet our guide for the walk and the other members of our group. Of course we all hope that we would be grouped with some cool people and upon our arrival it was relief to see that we would all probably get along quite welland have a great time. The group included two Aussies (Leon, Mario), three Brits (Jack, Anna, and Rebbecca) one German (Nico), One American (Elsa) and me the Paddy. There was actually another German Alex who at this point was tentative for the trail. Basically he caught some bug and had a high fever and everything that goes along with it. He ended up not going which I am sure was very hard for him. Our guide was a fellow name Romelo. A Nice mannered man with a thick accent, but we were all well able to understand him. The meeting covered about what to expect, what to bring and to be ready at 5am for pick up at our hotels for the 3 1/2 hour journey to the starting point for the trail. After the meeting we both headed out with the excited feeling that what we had been reading about, talking about and thinking about for months was just a wake up call away. As we made our way back to the hotel we stopped for a few Pisco sours just as a last hurrah before 4 days on the trail, and then some shopping to purchase essentials such as a poncho for me and what was to become Elsa’s new best friend a "walking stick" (more on that later)… Back at the hotel it was soon to bed where I set the TRUSTY ALARM CLOCK ON MY CELL PHONE for a 0400 wake up that I was sure would come sooner than later.

CUZCO Day 2

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Peru Day 2 “NO QUY"

Arrived Cusco 7:30am tired and so ready for a warm bed and a nap. We had arranged to be picked up by our hotel and of course wondered if they would actually show, but we exited the airport and within moments Elsa's name was called. It was a bit of a rouse, the guy who picked us up was also in the business of selling tourist packages so guess what his intentions really were. The altitude factor; I had heard (Elsa was here before) and read about the high altitude of Cusco and how acclimating is essential before any hike. At an elevation of 10,000 ft I got to tell you I felt it. I honestly didn’t think it would be a problem for me but I could feel it almost as soon as I got off the plane. Basically while walking or even sometimes just laying in bed you all of a sudden have the feeling to gasp for air. A weird feeling for sure, but mostly it just tires you out a little but all in all it was not enough to hinder anything we wanted to do but I guess to some people it really can take you out. We finally arrived at our hotel and were promptly handed our first cup of coco tea ;) must say it tasted pretty good and I “think” it helped with the altitude (placebo effect?) But who am I to question tradition. Straight to bed and a big 4 hour nap along with a few gasps of air every now and then. Time to relax, take a shower watch a little HBO (well you can't rough it the whole time) and off for a walk to the plaza de Almas the central square. Cusco the old Incan empire center has been inhabited longer than anywhere else in South America. To sum it up the Spanish found it, knocked down all there ruins and of course built their churches on top with the rocks. Read more here if you like .Yeah it sucks and Latin America is the same story all over. Machu Pichu of course was never found by the Spaniards so it's untouched.
Cusco, a beautiful majestic place with its of old narrow streets and cobblestones, indigenous people going about there daily lives wearing the most colorful clothes with the coolest hats, and doorways that I just could not take enough pictures of. It just felt genuine… The Peruvians I have to say here are some of the nicest, mellow, genuine people I have met. During my stint in the Navy I had the opportunity to travel to many nations and this place certainly is one of the top places I have visited. So Elsa and I set off on our way to the city center Plaza de Almas to look around, get something to eat and maybe have a few adult beverages ;) We were in no hurry and just wanted to take it all in. As I said a beautiful city with restaurants that line the perimeter of the square and as with much of Latin America a hive of activity. We saw a restaurant that looked decent and with a balcony and a great view of the square so we could people watch. Elsa had previously told me the national delicacy was a dish called “quy” what is Quy? It’s roasted guinea pig whole. Well I am not the most adventurous eater by any means, but I can tell you NO WAY am I going to eat that. It’s bad enough knowing what is but man they just had to put the pictures of the burnt little critters all over the place. YUCK… anyway the rest of the day was enjoyed just wandering around the town and I think we may have had a few pisco sours;… Elsa got to hold a baby alpaca. Anyway went to bed early.

Cuzco Day 1

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Peru, the Inca trail and beyond

October 4th 2006 the morning of our adventure to Peru began like most mornings before a major trip, at least for me anyway...LATE. Up to all hours the night before packing, and a mad rush in the morning standard stuff for me. I always work better at the last minute; it's when you are at your optimum level ;) Even organized Elsa gave us some anxious moments, with traffic from her new fashionable neighborhood of East County just not going smoothly and her having to eventually take the back roads. But as in most cases somehow it all came together and we arrived at the airport in time with help from my ex roommate Charlie. Upon checking in at the gate the issue of the expiration date of my passport came up. You see it was due to expire four days after I was scheduled to return. The ticket agent was concerned there were some restrictions and checked some records/documentation etc to see if there was any reason that would prohibit me from flying. I of course had decided months ago before the trip that it was fine, mainly because of the way you have to book the Inca trail. I was soon regretting it. Fortunately no specific reason was found and I proceeded on with the first leg of my journey. I must admit at this point I was a little apprehensive and this issue certainly put a little bit of a dampener on the excitement. I just now wanted to get to Peru first before I let myself become too caught up on what was had planned after we arrived. You know how beuacrtic these Latin countries can be. Back to the story... After leaving San Diego for Houston to catch our connecting flight to Lima, I am walking through the boarding gate and again the issue of my passport about to expire is noticed and addressed. The Lady gave me that “Hey your...bla bla bla” To which I replied I know all about it and it’s already been sorted and there is nothing YOU need to worry about. The lady sounded satisfied and I was allowed to proceed forward. This was the second time the passport issue was brought up today and I subsequently began thinking more and more about how this could end up really sucking. Nothing more of note here during the plane ride other than thinking of all the different scenarios of what might happen if I did not gain entry. Elsa presented one to me of her going on alone should I get turned back "I would let you go by yourself if the situation was reversed" she was of course right but it was not exactly what I wanted to hear at the time. Apart from looking forward to getting to our destination, we had a six hour lay over before our flight to Cusco to look forward to. Standing in line at immigration I again became worried if I was going to be turned away. Being now so close to our destination I could taste it and a wave of anything could happen swept over me. Elsa began to” clean her self up" and when I asked her why she replied "having a pretty girl talking to them sure won't hurt. True I thought as I began to ponder how I should approach the mordida (bribe) should the situation arise. Perhaps a few 20's in the passport up front just to make things a little smoother?? LOL. No worries I played it cool and the guy did not even look at my passport. Ah destiny or something like that... I was fucking in like Flynn. It really was a weight off my shoulders, to be so close and then get turned back...well you can imagine. Now I have never been to South America before so I did not know what to expect, but I found the Lima airport to be quite clean and well run, unlike other airports I have visited in Mexico or even I am sad to say Ireland. So we found ourselves a spot in the food court, feeling quite at home surrounded by papa john's pizza, dunken donuts and of course the icon of icons McDonald s. As comforting at some level this was I was rather disappointed to see this. So we sat there in Lima’s finest food court drinking a few beers (well I did) and listened to Elsa's multi million dollar law suit story. I would say that killed an hour and a half or so. For those who don't know already Elsa's story telling can match many an Irishman’s with the extreme attention to detail and length, and that I am sure it’s hard for many a person of the MTV generation to follow for more that a couple of minutes. A true raconteur ;). As the night crawled on we both became more delirious with fatigue, but I have to say good company does help and this was not the worst sit around and wait for hours session I have ever had. Airport tax...ahhh now I have traveled a lot and this is the first time I have actually had to pay it separate from the initial purchase of the ticket, and before you would be allowed to fly. For a domestic flight I guess it was not too bad at five bucks or something. But stay tuned to what it requires to get out of the country. Finally on to our last flight at 6 am to Cusco. I was on my second wind here and excitement was flying literally high. Fortunately this was a short one hour flight and I stared out the window most of the time looking at the spectacular un-touched snow capped Andes. Could I snowboard down that slope?? Just random thoughts at the moment. But this part gets into day two so wait for that blog.

Slan go foill

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