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Showing posts with label Cuzco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cuzco. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Peru Day 3 "Sexy Woman"


Today was E and P's first full day in Cuzco. The day began with a free breakfast buffet provided by our hotel and believe me this was not the usual “continental” breakfast bullshit dished out by most hotels the world over. Plenty of fruits, yogurts, fruit juices, pastries, and some meats and I do have to say runny eggs. But all in all you got your fill and a great start to the day in addition to a money saver. The first order of the day was to visit the Inca ruins just outside of Cuzco called Sacsayhuamen pronounced “sexy woman” In addition to the usual sight seeing we also set out to get “more in shape” ;) as we certainly did not prepare as much as we should have before arrival, but with that said we were not exactly out of shape either. We made our way to the edge of town where I guess you could argue was the older section of the city, an eclectic collection of hostels, restaurants, great views, cobble stone sidewalks and roads with LOTS of steep steps. Little did I know at this point of the trip that the Incas must love and I mean really LOVE steep steps. It was a theme played out with grueling consistency almost everyday. The altitude adjustment was still lingering and after climbing these steps I frequently had to stop and catch my breath more than one might expect. Making our way up the hill we came across what I guessed to be the main entrance gate to the ruin site. A man was standing there and he began to chit chat with Elsa. I thought it was another “hey do you need to buy a tour” routine again (they are all over the place) when suddenly Elsa became gleeful with a particular wave of excitement and a twinkle in her eye which I have since learned manifests itself when anything equestrian related happens. To her delight (and mine also), the opportunity of visiting these ruins and much more on horseback became a real possibility. We conferred for a few seconds on the details of the endeavor and decided it was on and promptly then set off to follow our guide. After a 20 minute hike and in behind some mud huts here and there, we found our ponies in a coral all ready to go. Of course the horses knew their way around all too well so all you really had to do was just sit there and let it all happen. Even trying to get them to walk faster was an effort as they honestly could not be bothered what YOU wanted to do and for the most part only listened to the owner. Elsa had a grin from ear to ear the whole time. In fact she was so excited that I do believe the pony she was riding picked up on her excitement and let it be known in his own little way he he he.. Tooting all the way he was. So we went up this path, down this one etc... Our first stop was a small rocky hill where our guide bid us to dismount and follow him. He took us to an Incan cave that had been used to hide all the gold from the Spaniards back in the day. Of course they found it, but we climbed through it and popped out the other side of the hill through a small hole. Pretty cool and Elsa did well being claustrophobic and all. Back on the ponies and off to see more small ruins. Nothing too spectacular but a good ride and certainly got to see more than you would have if walking or taking a tour bus around. The saddles were NOT comfortable or well fitting at all, so after a while I actually preferred to just walk as the inside of my legs were beginning to rub raw and I was getting aches and pains in all sorts of places after almost 3 hours on this animal. Our final stop was Sacsayhuamen. The ruins bore the same treatment as other sites with the stone walls again being razed and tore down by the Spaniards and then they used the stones to build their shit. But enough was left to still see what fine stone masons the Incas really were. Stones that fit together perfectly and have withstood the test of time with many an earthquake over the centuries to remind everyone how well they built everything. After a full day of sightseeing it was back into Cuzco. Looking forward to lunch we found ourselves in a small cute restaurant/bar that actually had an Incan wall as part of its structure. A quaint place with lots of character and one we decided to return to at a later time. For the life of us Elsa and I just can’t remember the name of it. After a nice late lunch and my first taste of liquid bubble gum (Inka Kola), it was back to the hotel to relax before later that evening where a required pre-Inca trail meeting was scheduled. It was at this meeting where we would meet our guide for the walk and the other members of our group. Of course we all hope that we would be grouped with some cool people and upon our arrival it was relief to see that we would all probably get along quite welland have a great time. The group included two Aussies (Leon, Mario), three Brits (Jack, Anna, and Rebbecca) one German (Nico), One American (Elsa) and me the Paddy. There was actually another German Alex who at this point was tentative for the trail. Basically he caught some bug and had a high fever and everything that goes along with it. He ended up not going which I am sure was very hard for him. Our guide was a fellow name Romelo. A Nice mannered man with a thick accent, but we were all well able to understand him. The meeting covered about what to expect, what to bring and to be ready at 5am for pick up at our hotels for the 3 1/2 hour journey to the starting point for the trail. After the meeting we both headed out with the excited feeling that what we had been reading about, talking about and thinking about for months was just a wake up call away. As we made our way back to the hotel we stopped for a few Pisco sours just as a last hurrah before 4 days on the trail, and then some shopping to purchase essentials such as a poncho for me and what was to become Elsa’s new best friend a "walking stick" (more on that later)… Back at the hotel it was soon to bed where I set the TRUSTY ALARM CLOCK ON MY CELL PHONE for a 0400 wake up that I was sure would come sooner than later.



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Monday, November 13, 2006

Peru Day 2 “NO QUY"


Arrived Cusco 7:30am tired and so ready for a warm bed and a nap. We had arranged to be picked up by our hotel and of course wondered if they would actually show, but we exited the airport and within moments Elsa's name was called. It was a bit of a rouse, the guy who picked us up was also in the business of selling tourist packages so guess what his intentions really were. The altitude factor; I had heard (Elsa was here before) and read about the high altitude of Cusco and how acclimating is essential before any hike. At an elevation of 10,000 ft I got to tell you I felt it. I honestly didn’t think it would be a problem for me but I could feel it almost as soon as I got off the plane. Basically while walking or even sometimes just laying in bed you all of a sudden have the feeling to gasp for air. A weird feeling for sure, but mostly it just tires you out a little but all in all it was not enough to hinder anything we wanted to do but I guess to some people it really can take you out. We finally arrived at our hotel and were promptly handed our first cup of coco tea ;) must say it tasted pretty good and I “think” it helped with the altitude (placebo effect?) But who am I to question tradition. Straight to bed and a big 4 hour nap along with a few gasps of air every now and then. Time to relax, take a shower watch a little HBO (well you can't rough it the whole time) and off for a walk to the plaza de Almas the central square. Cusco the old Incan empire center has been inhabited longer than anywhere else in South America. To sum it up the Spanish found it, knocked down all there ruins and of course built their churches on top with the rocks. Read more here if you like .Yeah it sucks and Latin America is the same story all over. Machu Pichu of course was never found by the Spaniards so it's untouched.
Cusco, a beautiful majestic place with its of old narrow streets and cobblestones, indigenous people going about there daily lives wearing the most colorful clothes with the coolest hats, and doorways that I just could not take enough pictures of. It just felt genuine… The Peruvians I have to say here are some of the nicest, mellow, genuine people I have met. During my stint in the Navy I had the opportunity to travel to many nations and this place certainly is one of the top places I have visited. So Elsa and I set off on our way to the city center Plaza de Almas to look around, get something to eat and maybe have a few adult beverages ;) We were in no hurry and just wanted to take it all in. As I said a beautiful city with restaurants that line the perimeter of the square and as with much of Latin America a hive of activity. We saw a restaurant that looked decent and with a balcony and a great view of the square so we could people watch. Elsa had previously told me the national delicacy was a dish called “quy” what is Quy? It’s roasted guinea pig whole. Well I am not the most adventurous eater by any means, but I can tell you NO WAY am I going to eat that. It’s bad enough knowing what is but man they just had to put the pictures of the burnt little critters all over the place. YUCK… anyway the rest of the day was enjoyed just wandering around the town and I think we may have had a few pisco sours;… Elsa got to hold a baby alpaca. Anyway went to bed early.

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Friday, November 03, 2006

Peru, the Inca trail and beyond

October 4th 2006 the morning of our adventure to Peru began like most mornings before a major trip, at least for me anyway...LATE. Up to all hours the night before packing, and a mad rush in the morning standard stuff for me. I always work better at the last minute; it's when you are at your optimum level ;) Even organized Elsa gave us some anxious moments, with traffic from her new fashionable neighborhood of East County just not going smoothly and her having to eventually take the back roads. But as in most cases somehow it all came together and we arrived at the airport in time with help from my ex roommate Charlie. Upon checking in at the gate the issue of the expiration date of my passport came up. You see it was due to expire four days after I was scheduled to return. The ticket agent was concerned there were some restrictions and checked some records/documentation etc to see if there was any reason that would prohibit me from flying. I of course had decided months ago before the trip that it was fine, mainly because of the way you have to book the Inca trail. I was soon regretting it. Fortunately no specific reason was found and I proceeded on with the first leg of my journey. I must admit at this point I was a little apprehensive and this issue certainly put a little bit of a dampener on the excitement. I just now wanted to get to Peru first before I let myself become too caught up on what was had planned after we arrived. You know how beuacrtic these Latin countries can be. Back to the story... After leaving San Diego for Houston to catch our connecting flight to Lima, I am walking through the boarding gate and again the issue of my passport about to expire is noticed and addressed. The Lady gave me that “Hey your...bla bla bla” To which I replied I know all about it and it’s already been sorted and there is nothing YOU need to worry about. The lady sounded satisfied and I was allowed to proceed forward. This was the second time the passport issue was brought up today and I subsequently began thinking more and more about how this could end up really sucking. Nothing more of note here during the plane ride other than thinking of all the different scenarios of what might happen if I did not gain entry. Elsa presented one to me of her going on alone should I get turned back "I would let you go by yourself if the situation was reversed" she was of course right but it was not exactly what I wanted to hear at the time. Apart from looking forward to getting to our destination, we had a six hour lay over before our flight to Cusco to look forward to. Standing in line at immigration I again became worried if I was going to be turned away. Being now so close to our destination I could taste it and a wave of anything could happen swept over me. Elsa began to” clean her self up" and when I asked her why she replied "having a pretty girl talking to them sure won't hurt. True I thought as I began to ponder how I should approach the mordida (bribe) should the situation arise. Perhaps a few 20's in the passport up front just to make things a little smoother?? LOL. No worries I played it cool and the guy did not even look at my passport. Ah destiny or something like that... I was fucking in like Flynn. It really was a weight off my shoulders, to be so close and then get turned back...well you can imagine. Now I have never been to South America before so I did not know what to expect, but I found the Lima airport to be quite clean and well run, unlike other airports I have visited in Mexico or even I am sad to say Ireland. So we found ourselves a spot in the food court, feeling quite at home surrounded by papa john's pizza, dunken donuts and of course the icon of icons McDonald s. As comforting at some level this was I was rather disappointed to see this. So we sat there in Lima’s finest food court drinking a few beers (well I did) and listened to Elsa's multi million dollar law suit story. I would say that killed an hour and a half or so. For those who don't know already Elsa's story telling can match many an Irishman’s with the extreme attention to detail and length, and that I am sure it’s hard for many a person of the MTV generation to follow for more that a couple of minutes. A true raconteur ;). As the night crawled on we both became more delirious with fatigue, but I have to say good company does help and this was not the worst sit around and wait for hours session I have ever had. Airport tax...ahhh now I have traveled a lot and this is the first time I have actually had to pay it separate from the initial purchase of the ticket, and before you would be allowed to fly. For a domestic flight I guess it was not too bad at five bucks or something. But stay tuned to what it requires to get out of the country. Finally on to our last flight at 6 am to Cusco. I was on my second wind here and excitement was flying literally high. Fortunately this was a short one hour flight and I stared out the window most of the time looking at the spectacular un-touched snow capped Andes. Could I snowboard down that slope?? Just random thoughts at the moment. But this part gets into day two so wait for that blog.

Slan go foill

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